Salamanca is distinguished because it has everything twice: two cathedrals, two universities, and two very different lives. Along with the usual atmosphere of a city characterized by tourism, the capital of Charro also has a student atmosphere. This means that its fantastic monuments are adorned with tunas, an unstoppable nightlife, and a kind of “open 24 hours”.
The first thing that the visitor who arrives in Salamanca sees is the river and, in the background, the wonderful lineage of the Cathedral, which imposes and reigns in the city. It is convenient to enjoy these views, from the other side of the river (if possible from the Roman bridge) and take a walk before entering the streets of a city that has preserved the flavor and charm of yesteryear.
Gothic and baroque styles predominate in its streets, in which it is impossible not to notice. Plateresque adorns the yellow stone of Villamayor , the cradle of stonemasons and lentils that, although not very refined, are exquisite.
The first thing to see are the cathedrals. The Old Cathedral , crowned by the Torre del Gallo , in Romanesque style and whose Main Altarpiece was painted in 1445 by order of Bishop Gonzalo Viveri, constitutes an experience that concludes with a visit to the attached New Cathedral . The renewed version is a cluster of Gothic, Plateresque and Neoclassical.
Salamanca is ideal for architecture lovers. But it is more than that. Very close to the cathedrals, in the Patio Chico , stands the Casa Lis. Built at the beginning of the 20th century, it stands out for its stained glass windows or the skylight on the central staircase. Lively and colorful, Casa Lis houses the Art Noveau and Art Déco collection by Manuel Ramos Andrade, which gives it a special interest. Those who are afraid of porcelain dolls, better be content with the outside.
Already wandering around again, the best option is Rúa Mayor. At number 36 there is a pastry shop always full of people, the Croissanteria Paris, which sells you any kind of croissant, Neapolitan or similar, always hot and stuffed on the go to suit the consumer.
From there we quickly reach calle company, with the Casa de las Conchas (today converted into a library), whose construction began in the 15th century and ended with an extension in the 18th century. The motifs on the façade, shells and Lis flowers, are due to the shields of Rodrigo Arias de Maldonado and María de Pimentel. It was because of their marriage bond that the house began to be built.
In front of it stands another of the city’s majestic buildings, the Clerecía , the clearest example of Baroque in Spain. Today, it is the church of the Pontifical University of Salamanca, the student center par excellence in the city, the cradle of knowledge and also of beauty.
Deviating a bit, along Calle Libreros we find the famous Plateresque façade of the University . And it is not famous for its style, but because it contains the famous frog, which among skulls, flowers and all kinds of ornaments, is nestled on the wall. Student tradition says that if you start studying and find the frog, you will be lucky in your exams.
On the march again to approach the Plaza Mayor , which stands majestically at the end of the Rúa Mayor, a clear prototype of a baroque square and which continues to be a meeting place as in the past. It is worth taking a break in one of the many terraces (especially during October, the student hazing season) where, despite the relatively high cost, the visitor can calmly see the true essence of life in the city.
Despite the fact that in the square itself and its surrounding streets there are many tapas bars where you can enjoy the benefits of the Salamanca pig (ribs, roast ham, Moorish skewers, loin …), it is best to let yourself be carried away by what the locals do. inhabitants of the city and leave the historic center until we reach Van Dyck street, in whose surroundings there are many tapas bars of the best of the city and inexpensive restaurants (which are not bad).
Finally, when it comes to nightlife, there are many options. For the youngest, and who want to enjoy drinking and laughing in the street, the Plaza del Oeste is a must. If what you are looking for is a more alternative environment, where you can drink beer at a low price, the choice is clear: the Plaza de San Justo (better known for the Plaza de San Costo among students). Finally, the Gran Vía , with more select environments and where you can dance.
In short, a small city that never sleeps.